No Juan Is An Island

” You don’t always need a plan. Just go.“

Back in April 2017, my journey from the vibrant chaos of Istanbul to the icy landscapes of Iceland took an unexpected, daylight detour: a 15-hour layover in Kyiv. Ukraine’s capital wasn’t originally on my radar, but those few hours transformed a simple transit into a vivid memory of golden skylines and hearty flavors.

Stepping out of Boryspil International Airport, the crisp spring air was an immediate wake-up call. I headed straight for the heart of the city, Maidan Nezalezhnosti. The scale of the square is humbling, but the real magic lies just a short walk away at St. Sophia’s Cathedral. Standing before those iconic green and gold pear-shaped domes against a bright April sky felt like stepping into a postcard. I spent a good hour wandering the grounds, mesmerized by the intricate Byzantine mosaics that have survived centuries.

As the morning chill settled, I sought out the ultimate Ukrainian comfort food: Borscht. I found a cozy cellar-style tavern where the soup was served deep crimson, rich with beets, and topped with a generous dollop of smetana (sour cream). Paired with Pampushky—soft garlic bread rolls—it was easily the best meal of my entire trip.
Before heading back, I took a funicular ride from the Upper Town down to Podil, the old merchant quarter. Walking along the Dnipro River, I grabbed a quick Kyivska Perepichka (a legendary local street food consisting of a hot dog encased in deep-fried dough) to fuel my trek back to the airport.

Kyiv in April was a revelation of resilience and beauty. It was a whirlwind, yes, but those 15 hours proved that sometimes the best travel stories happen in the spaces between destinations.