Where Time Stands Still: Capul Island, Northern Samar 🇵🇭

We are torn between a nostalgia for the familiar and an urge for the foreign and strange. As often as not, we are homesick most for the places we have never known.” ~ Carson McCullers

Capul is an island municipality in the province of Northern Samar in Eastern Visayas region. It is a notable place because it is the only town in the province that has its own language called Inabaknon (a language derived from the Sama-Badjao linguistic form), while the rest of the province (and region) speaks a native language called Waray.

A majestic view of Bulusan Volcano and the San Bernardino Strait as seen from the coast of Capul Island.

Aside from this unique cultural importance it upholds, island of Capul in itself is a beauty to behold.

This island that sits in the middle of the San Bernardino Strait was originally named Abak (the name of the chieftain of a group of people that migrated from the south). No wonder there is also a beach named Abak in the island. Feom a bird’s eyeview, the island is shaped like a grain of rice with length measuring approximately 14 kms. and 5 kms in its widest section.

Capul Island aunset

If you want to rest and relax go for walks on miles of beaches, snorkel, have beautiful coral gardens and white sand beach, as well as a wreck. There are 2 caves to explore on the other side of the island as well as WW 2 Japanese war bunkers located at the historical Light House, and also the oldest Church in the Visayas, and a Watch Tower that is over 400 years old. Capul also features a stark watchtower in its landscape, a further reminder of the loneliness of this islet.

With some local kids of Capul

Here are some photos I was able to save from my Northern Samar trip back in 2011 with my friend, Immacon.

The Capul Church or Fuerza de Capul (San Ignacio de Loyola Parish Church) is said to be the oldest in the Visayas. The church was established by the Jesuits in 1596. The original structure of the church is believed to have been constructed using wood and nipa roofs, but was destroyed by the Moros. It was repaired later on using stone to fortify against Moro attacks, just like how Intramuros in Manila and Fort San Pedro in Cebu were built.

The Capul Lighthouse situated at the Titoog Point — the northern tip of Capul Island, presents a very picturesque backdrop of the San Bernardino Strait and on a clear day, Bilusan Volcano which is in the province of Sorsogon. The cylindrical lighthouse, while old, is still functional, and serves as an important historical landmark.

Capul Island Lighthouse

The Timon-Timon rock formation is located at the southern parr of the island (opposite of the lighthouse). It is a rudder-shaped (ro some an erected penis like) rock formation. There is a nearby beach in the area called Abak Beach where the current is pretty strong and raging. No wonder rock formations like Timon-Timon and several other smaller ones have been formed through time.

Sunset at Timon-Timon Rocks
Abak Beach

Capul Island is one place I have visited that made me feel that time stands still… It reminded not to fear the future and tgat I should allow myself to live in the moment and be happy while I could. Take it easy.

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